“Ben Revived” in Ben Wheeler

I just spent two weeks in Ben Wheeler, TX. Population unknown because, well, there are no city lines. But according to Wikipedia, the knower of everything — even the unknown — the population is 425.

An evening at the Fish Fry. Photo by Peggy Ryan

Where Is Ben Wheeler, Anyway?

When my mom first saw Ben Wheeler on my summer itinerary she asked me why I hadn’t told her I was seeing someone new. “Seeing someone?” I was confused. “Ben Wheeler?” she responded. “That’s the name of the city! It is named after the first mail carrier,” I laughed. “Oh! Where’s that?” Now she was confused.

Artisan-made hats in the center of Ben Wheeler. Photo by Peggy Ryan

I often got that kind of response when sharing my summer itinerary as I find lesser-known travel destinations to be intriguing. The fewer the tourists, the easier it feels to capture authenticity, but the authentic can also come with logistical travel challenges. My colleagues in Italy, who I was going to school with and had studied Ben Wheeler with me in our urban planning class, couldn’t wait for me to get there.

An srtisan at work in Ben Wheeler. Photo by Peggy Ryan

When my trip was confirmed we immediately got on Google Earth to check it out. “I’m going to like every post you make from Ben Wheeler,” my friend Lauren said supportively, perched on a chair in our favorite hangout. She knew how important this tiny destination was for me, as it represented what I valued most — recognizing the value that the arts play in quality of life.

A local heading home after an evening in Ben Wheeler. Photo by Peggy Ryan

Why I Chose Ben Wheeler Over Austin, Dallas, or Houston

A friend from Texas messaged me when he found out about the trip. “Why Ben Wheeler? Why not Austin or Houston or Dallas?” I explained I was researching Ben Wheeler because it had made a small name for itself when it begin its urban transformation, and I read about them through research for a cultural policy course I was taking at Carnegie Mellon. 

Connections being made at the Fish Fry. Photo by Peggy Ryan

A man named Brooks Gremmels was in the process of leveraging the power of the arts, among other things, to make Ben Wheeler a better place to live. His work included including offering artisans free rent in the center of town, creating regular major festivals and events that brought people to Ben Wheeler from far and wide, inviting musicians to play at bars and restaurants he was opening in the center of town, and hosting regular open mic nights for locals to showcase their talent and get to know each other.

A local artisan in her studio. Photo by Peggy Ryan

From Cultural Policy Class to Small-Town Texas

And after three years of following the transformation of this once-forgotten place in East Texas as it blossomed into a community with the help of a man with a heart, a checkbook, and a vision, I was incredibly curious to finally visit and experience the transformation in person.

A local enjoying a night out in Ben Wheeler. Photo by Peggy Ryan

First Impressions: Trucks, Fried Pickles, and Cowboy Boots

As it turns out, Ben Wheeler met and exceeded every one of my expectations.

Unsweet tea shared with friends is the best kind. Photo by Peggy Ryan

Ben Wheeler absolutely delivered on what Texas does best: I got my fair share of unsweet tea, fried pickles, big trucks, ranch dressing, cowboy boots, four-wheelin’, opinionated guys, huntin’ stories, Obama jokes, guns, critters, and Coors light (imagine this said with an East Texas twang).

An srtisan at work in Ben Wheeler. Photo by Peggy Ryan

Unexpected Discoveries: Lakes and Landscapes

But the surprises came just as quickly. My first big one was on the drive from the airport. “There are lakes in Texas!?” I exclaimed naively as we drove by a beautiful town nestled along the banks of a man-made lake.

A lake near Ben Wheeler. Photo by Peggy Ryan

The lakes in and around Ben Wheeler ended up as the perfect destination for a relaxing afternoon suntanning by the lake and sipping unsweet tea, and processing all of the wisdom I was being exposed to through the interviews I was doing with the citizens of Ben Wheeler. They were also a reminder of the critical role the countryside plays in the psyche of the East Texas citizen — how people that live in rural Texas crave independence, but that human connection is still a basic need, and that the quiet genius of Brooks Gremmels was that he recognized this tug-of-war.

A lake near Ben Wheeler. Photo by Peggy Ryan

Finding Community in Ben Wheeler

But the part of Ben Wheeler that came as the biggest surprise was unexpectedly feeling like I was a part of a community. I guess because I have never lived in a tight-knit community before, I had no idea what that felt like.

It feels great to be welcomed.

I think most people in the U.S. are like me. The lucky few of us that can say we live in a true community lead a different sort of life that, in a way, isn’t very “American” anymore.

The local fire crew at the Fish Fry. Photo by Peggy Ryan

The community of Ben Wheeler is a place where people don’t lock their front doors. They keep their keys in their ignitions. They go out to dinner without making plans to meet anyone because they know their friends will show up at some point and at the very least they can catch up with the restaurant staff.

Locals enjoying the Fish Fry. Photo by Peggy Ryan

Or they can just look out the restaurant window at the world going by in their picture perfect downtown. If they need to repair their fence, they ask their neighbor.

Locals enjoying a restaurant in the center of Ben Wheeler. Photo by Peggy Ryan

“I think this is my last stop in life.”

I personally interviewed 97 people in Ben Wheeler. People that had retired there sounded like a broken record, “We never knew a single one of our neighbors the entire time we lived in Dallas. Now we know everybody.” A 20-something runaway told me, “I just got into my car and drove and ended up in downtown Ben Wheeler and my first thought was, ‘I think this is my last stop in life.'”

Kids enjoying their own time together while their families attend the Fish Fry. Photo by Peggy Ryan

Young families told me, “We wanted our kids to grow up where we didn’t have to worry about them playing in the front yard alone.” And a man that lives in the next town over mused about moving to Ben Wheeler, “Sometimes I sit here (in downtown Ben Wheeler) listening to music with friends, enjoying the evening, and we say to each other, ‘Isn’t this what it’s all about?'”

So much happening at the Fish Fry. Photo by Peggy Ryan

What Ben Wheeler Taught Me About American Life 

It sure makes a city girl think. And think hard. After enjoying life in Italy and wondering if the charm I experience there could ever be replicated in the U.S.,

The yoga class at the community center. Photo by Peggy Ryan

Ben Wheeler has revitalized my faith that life in the U.S. doesn’t just have to be about shopping trips to Target, working out at the gym, and binge-ordering on Amazon and Uber Eats.

A librarian at the library. Photo by Peggy Ryan

There are still true communities out there, defined by a simpler way of life: individuality and real connection between the people that makes them strong. In these places, they really actually want to know your name. And they’ll remember it.

Brooks Gremmels on a daily tour of projects in progress. Photo by Peggy Ryan

The Visionaries Behind the Town’s Revival

Thanks to Brooks Gremmels in Ben Wheeler – the man with the vision – his wife Rese, and their amazing team including Jenni, Donley, Steve, and the rest of fabulous Ben Wheeler, I’ve definitely “Ben Revived.”